The size and cost of a project varies greatly, depending on the size, subject matter, and materials used. Because of this varying factor, I charge by the hour and not by square footage or the project. I presently charge $60 an hour for on the job painting and $30 an hour for research, planning and computer work.  I work very hard to stay within my client's budget. I pride myself in painting quality murals at affordable prices.  I have many references that will testify for both my quality and my speed. You are welcome to contact me for references. If you find something in the portfolio that you like or that you think is comparable to what you are wanting to have done, I can tell you approximately how much the project cost.  To see some samples of murals and the hours of work that I have in a particular mural you may click here. I will also be glad to discuss estimates on new projects when you contact me.

I give potential clients a free 30 minute consultation visit including the first 30 miles of travel for free.  If you choose to do the consultation and planning over the phone or internet then I will put that first 30 miles of travel towards my first painting trip to your home. I do not charge hourly time rates during my travel but I do charge $.60 per mile (subject to change with economy). I use MapQuest or Google Maps to determine the mileage. You may check out the distance yourself by using my office address at 3516 South Rolling Oaks Drive, Tulsa, Oklahoma, 74107

Supplies are normally included in my hourly rate unless I am using an unusual amount of paint due to painting entire walls such as in public murals or unless I need some special product or color match for your job.  When I do charge for supplies the fee is typically between 1% and 3% of the entire mural costs. To see a copy of the supplies I use and how I charge you may click here.

If you compare the cost to a hired professional wallpaper installer or wall painter you might be surprised at how reasonable a mural can be.   Unlike wallpaper or a plain paint job, your end product will be "one of a kind" and "made to order" just for you.

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What do I need to do to prepare the walls for a mural?

If you are thinking more along the lines of trompe l'oeil work in which the background wall color will also be exposed, then you might want to consider applying a new coat of paint to the wall rather than have me work on a dirty wall.  I will be glad to do this base painting including any prep work such as spackling and minor sanding, but it may be more cost effective for you if you chose to do the prep work yourself.

If you plan to have an entire wall painted with a mural from floor to ceiling, then it probably isn't necessary to put a fresh coat of paint on the wall since I will be covering the entire wall with my paint. The exception would be if the present wall color is a dark color. Then it might need to be primed with a lighter color so it will not show through in the mural. Many of the public murals in my portfolio were painted on the walls just the way they were.

Outdoor murals are another thing. They involve taking the necessary steps to eliminate any dirt and oxidation on the walls so the paint will stick effectively to the wall. If the wall has a dusty or chalky feel to it then some prep work will be necessary. If a piece of tape will not stick to the wall, then you can be pretty sure that the paint will not stick to it either. If you have recently painted an outdoor wall yourself you can do a "tape release test" on the wall.  Press tape tightly on the wall and peal it off. If the paint comes off with the tape then you have a problem with oxidation. My mural paint is only as permanent as the surface it is painted on. If the paint underneath wants to "peel" then my mural painting will come off with it.

We can discus any necessary preparations work when you contact me.  I will be glad to discuss the things you can do to reduce the cost of the mural and advise you regarding which products are best to use.

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Can you paint on walls that aren't smooth?

Most definitely!  I have painted on textured surfaces, wood paneling, concrete blocks, rough bricks, etc.  In fact, I prefer the wall to have a slight texture, since I rarely paint on a smooth surface.  If you look through my portfolio, you will notice many different types of surfaces underneath the murals including concrete blocks, bricks, stucco and wood paneling.

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What kind of paint products do you use ?

I use all acrylic based paint.  Most of my murals are done with Premium Plus Behr Satin Interior Wall Paint. I usually use a satin finish because it is a more washable finish. I switch to eggshell when I work in bathrooms because it is more mildew resistant. (I will be glad to discuss the use of different finishes upon request.)  I also use specialty colors in Liquitex acrylic tube paint and various tole-painting products.  Behr also produces several specialty paints and glazes that I use.

I use exterior paints when doing an outside mural.  I use a matte finish so the sun will not reflect off the mural.  You are welcome to contact me if you have any questions or concerns about the products I use.

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How do I preserve the mural?

Although many people feel they should put some kind of sealer on top of the painting, I do not necessarily recommend it for all situations.  Sealers often add more shine which detracts from the artwork, even those that specifically say flat, dull, or matte finish often add an annoying shine to the mural. Oil based primers in particular discolor the art work.  Most of my murals are painted with interior satin latex paint.  Latex paint is as washable and durable as your own wall paint.  The paint on many of the public murals actually holds up longer and better than solid walls because of the mix of colors in the mural.  They tend to hide the dirt and grime from normal wear and tear and finger touching. If you feel the need to put a sealer on top of the mural, I recommend a dull or matte finish of acrylic latex polyurethane.  This is a water based latex finish made especially for the latex paint.  I do not recommend oil-based polymers because they tend to yellow and discolor the artwork.  I do charge extra for the sealers as they are sometimes costly and do not store well.  You are welcome to put the sealer on yourself if you so choose.

Furniture is a different story.  I always put two coats of sealer on furniture because of the wear and tear that furniture receives. Children's furniture especially needs to be sealed.  I also seal doors because of the same reason. 

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Can you paint on furniture?

Yes. I have a section in my portfolio specifically on furniture. Most of the furniture started with either a wood stain or a new coat of fresh white or cream paint. On a few occasions I have had unexplainable problems working on furniture. Because of this, I do NOT strip or prepare furniture myself; it will be up to you to get the furniture ready for art work. For the most part, my furniture projects have been very successful. Please see my portfolio for examples.  I also recommend sealing all furniture to improve durability. 

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Do you travel outside of your home base area?

Yes. I typically drive my van to the location since I need my supplies and equipment on the job site. I charge $.60 per mile wherever I go. If the project is longer than one day and I am traveling more than 60 miles or an hour from home it is often more cost effective to get a hotel room rather than travel back and forth.  The cost of the hotel room will be at the expense of the client.  The client is asked to check out the hotels in the local area and make the arrangements or best advise me on the local overnight options.  Any hotel arrangements must be paid for in advance before I will commit myself to travel the distance to the job sight. If an extended stay is necessary it is most ideal for the room to include a refrigerator and microwave and/or stove. I can be flexible on this option if I have advanced notice.

If the job lasts longer than 2 weeks the client is expected to pay for travel expenses back and forth for a weekend visit to home and family. If I am in a larger city then air travel may be cheaper than driving back and forth in my work vehicle.  I try to check out all options and do what is most cost effective for the client.

The farthest distant  I have traveled thus far has been Austin, Texas which is an eight hour drive from Tulsa. My clients there found me on the internet and they could not find a local artist that they thought would do as good a job as me. I believe there are other places out there that either do not have a local artist or the local artists are much more expensive than I am. I firmly believe I offer a quality product for an affordable price. I believe if you compare prices you might be pleasantly surprised. 

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